Understanding perfume: An interview with the “nostril” of Pai – The Pai Life


After exploring the ability of scent throughout final week’s Aromatherapy Consciousness Week, we’ve caught up with Marine – our Formulation Chemist right here at Pai HQ, who additionally holds the (unofficial) title of “The nostril of Pai”!

Marine is famend for her unimaginable sense of scent and places it to good use, tweaking and testing the scents of recent and present Pai merchandise.

Over to Marine…

Job title?

Formulator Chemist

What does your position entail?

Creating, re-formulating and enhancing merchandise – paying particular consideration to how they scent and really feel.

Pai merchandise are for delicate pores and skin – so how do you choose pure fragrances to work in concord with tough pores and skin?

Very rigorously! After we’re formulating merchandise, delicate pores and skin is all the time on the entrance of our minds and naturally perfume performs a giant position in that. We’ll by no means use an artificial perfume in our merchandise – moreover the ecological and well being elements related, they’re one of the frequent irritants on the market.

We use a small number of naturally derived fragrances or closely diluted important oils, extracted by way of steam or water distillation. Many individuals assume that pure mechanically equals mild, however sadly some oils are extremely irritating and may trigger reactions on delicate pores and skin.

For that reason, we should be additional selective with regards to deciding on the pure oils we use.

How do you go about tailoring the scent of a product?

High secret data…! To tailor or create a scent, you first want to know what scent or “fragrance” entails. To mix a pure perfume, it’s good to mix oils from completely different classes.

Consider whenever you strive a brand new fragrance – the scent initially of the day whenever you first spritz it on is completely completely different from the scent on the finish of the day. This is named the Olfactive Pyramid – it defines the construction of a scent and the notes we understand because it evolves.

That is an instance of the pyramid for a fragrance:


When you perceive how a scent is created, it’s time to begin testing! At Pai we use high-quality botanicals and uncooked supplies, so it’s a case of working with the pure aroma of those components slightly than attempting to cowl it up.

I choose important oils for his or her pores and skin advantages after which I mix in keeping with the Olfactive Pyramid making an allowance for the kind of scent we’d like to attain. We all the time use a tiny quantity of fragrance (the mix of important oils) – all the time lower than 0.5% of the general formulation, so pores and skin irritation isn’t a difficulty.

Does your nostril get “drained” testing scents all day?!

Sure, undoubtedly. After some time I can’t scent something or all the things smells the identical. There’s just one factor that refreshes your nostril – espresso!

Ever been to a fragrance store and questioned why there have been bowls of espresso beans in every single place? They’re there to cleanse your sense of scent.

All of it comes all the way down to primary psychophysiology (which isn’t all that primary). Whenever you pattern scent after scent, it’s possible you’ll expertise “nasal fatigue”.

Nasal fatigue occurs when your nasal receptors develop into much less and fewer delicate to sure notes. Due to this fact, smelling espresso in between perfume testing can really “cleanse” out your nasal receptors and give you an untainted smelling palate.

Good excuse for a cup of espresso!